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Rearing and keeping - Reptile-Planet

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Rearing and keeping of hatchlings and juveling Collared Iguanas (C.Colaris Baileyi)

Collared iguanas are very curious animals and normally they only have birds and mammals as enemies. But it is different as hatchlings and young animals. All other lizards, including those of the same species, or snakes like to eat them, and that in the true sense of the word.
Hatchlings are fed with small to medium-sized crickets, steppe crickets, migratory or desert locusts. Since the iguanas grow very quickly, these animals should always be sprinkled with calcium. Daily intensive UVA / B radiation is essential. 2-3 times a week the feed animals are pollinated with vitamins e.g. Nekton-Rep.
You will certainly find on other pages that the animals should not be fed with food animals that are too large and preferably with micro crickets or micro steppe crickets. Now our young animals have not even started to feel the Mirco things as food. Even small crickets / crickets were eaten reluctantly, only with the middle crickets and crickets was the interest really aroused. One must always remember that the neck iguanas as adults eat 2-3 large desert locusts (per day), and here the grasshopper makes up almost 2/3 of the iguana iguana or other lizards that can be the same size.
Under no circumstances must hatchlings and young animals be kept in the same terrarium as the adults !!. As already mentioned above, these would definitely serve as a 'snack'!
More than an iguana in the terrarium
We have no problems with up to 10 hatchlings of the same size or young collared iguanas in a 120x80x120cm terrarium. Here too, of course, there must be enough hiding places. As long as the Halsis are not yet sexually mature, they are not too aggressive against each other, as long as there is enough food available.
One of the best purchases you can make is a Libra. Comparing weight and feeding records will warn you early if something is not quite right. This allows you to fix the problem before it becomes life threatening. Good husbandry and faecal examinations often keep the collared iguanas healthy.
Before the winter that requires a collared iguana and must also be made as a young animal, it is advisable to have a stool sample analyzed by a qualified reptile vet and, if necessary, to do something about it. During this 'resting phase', the animal is particularly susceptible to parasitic attacks. Since a collared iguana only eats insects (in the wild also smaller lizards, sometimes up to their own size), the vegetable portion is carried out by filling the food animals and parasites can normally only be ingested through this.
C.Colaris Baileyi are rock dwellers. Of course, the hatchlings benefit from a smaller terrarium with few hiding places for the food animals, on the other hand, the small ones are also active hunters and only attack food animals that move quickly. Slowly moving feed animals can definitely be ignored. As a hatchling, an aquarium / terrarium 60x30x40cm is usually sufficient to keep some hatchlings for up to 2 months, after which it is imperative to move to a larger terrace. In particular, the height is an issue, as even the little ones have a very large jumping power and can jump 30cm high without any major problems.
Similar to other lizards from dry areas, we use a terrarium made of 15mm OSB panels, at least quality D3, better would be D4, whereby we sealed this with 2 components epoxy resin, which comes from boat building and is absolutely environmentally friendly. Ventilation takes place through a slot in the cover closed with a perforated plate. Air supply through a slot in the lower front area of ​​the terrarium. Due to the sealing, the terrariums can be easily cleaned (also with a steam jet) and are UVA / B resistant. The right choice of epoxy resin makes the difference here

These terrariums are also able to withstand the high temperatures of the UVA / B lamps and by far have better thermal insulation than glass terrariums. In the case of glass terrariums, the environment is heated to a large extent, not to mention that with wooden terrariums, a change to the design or lighting is much easier to handle.
For collared iguanas, a minimum size of 6x4x4 of the KRL length is required (pair). For each additional animal, 20% more space is required. In principle, this also applies to hatchlings and young animals. Collared iguanas grow fast, are very active animals and the more space the better.
We can deliver both kits, standard (fully assembled without furniture and lighting) as well as customized terrariums. In the last two cases, the lamps can already be integrated (must be discussed) or ordered individually for the craftsmen in this area. Normally, the set-up and turnaround are only designed for customer-specific terrariums. With the kits or standard terrariums, this is actually the nice thing about building yourself. More about this in our shop.
As already mentioned, C.Colaris Baileyi are rock dwellers. As a young animal or hatchling, soil material that can be digged is not necessarily required, but in every case there are caves and hiding places. Material that can be digged is only required when it comes to hibernation, as the animals would then bury themselves. If you want to prevent this, do not use a substrate. Then take the animals out of the prepared caves and shelters and hibernate.
Terrarium equipment for young animals
Young animals benefit from a simple environment. A smooth and large river stone is an excellent 'rock' for sunbathing. The darker the stone, the more heat is stored, which can definitely have a positive effect.
DO NOT use heat rocks or heating pads. In contrast to the bearded dragons, our rearing terrarium for iguanas is designed in the same way as for adult iguanas. In other words, lots of space, hiding, climbing and sunbathing. There is certainly another way of doing it, but we have been very successful with it.
UVA / B lighting and the effects
Like bearded dragons, collared iguanas also need the full spectrum of daylight, including UVA and UVB. We use the Lucky Reptile Bright Sun UV Dessert for the hotspot and UVA / B. However, this only works if the breeding terrarium is high enough. The working distance for the 50W or 70W is approx. 20-40 cm. If you want to install the spot in the terrarium, you need at least a terrarium with a height of 50-60cm (50cm only for 50W spotlights). In the case of rearing terrariums from 30cm-40cm in height, you can of course also place the radiator on the terrarium, provided it is not a glass terrarium and irradiates through a hole in the lid. Glass filters almost 100% of the UVA and B components from the light and the barties would not get anything.
There is also the option of using fluorescent tubes and compact lamps to generate the UVA / B component. However, this only works to a certain extent up to a working distance of 25cm, whereby only about 80µWatt / sqcm can be achieved here as well. In the wild it is more like 300µWatt / sqcm. The Lucky Reptile Bright Sun UV Dessert 70W brings at least a measured 250µWatt / sqcm at a working distance of 35cm.
We regularly check the UVA / B intensity of our UV lamps and these are normally changed once a year. UVB fluorescent tubes have to be changed every 3 months, as they lose the UVA / B component more quickly and have a lower radiation intensity than metal halide lamps from the start.
If reptiles and here in particular deserts and steppes reptiles receive too little or no UVA / B spectrum, this has serious consequences for their health. Starting with the fact that the growth is bad, the bones become too soft and can cripple themselves as a result, until then the reptiles can stop eating and in the worst case can die. Of course, the risk of bacterial or parasitic infestation or fighting them yourself is also greater.
A clear sign of insufficient UVB is the trembling of limbs. This has nothing to do with the fact that it is too cold, but one of the first signs that too little D3 is being formed. D3 is a vitamin (actually an enzyme) which is formed from calcium and phosphorus through UVB radiation.
UVA deficiency has the consequence that abetitlosgkeit and also molting problems occur.
Temperature around 45 ° C + UVA is absolutely necessary for good digestion! A fatal outcome can certainly be the result if there is not enough UVA / B light.
We feed twice a day with food insects, such as steppe crickets, Mediterranean crickets, deserts or locusts. Since collared iguanas are sight hunters, only food animals that move really fast are caught and eaten. The vegetable part of the food is absorbed by the 'filled' insects. Feed insects are dusted daily with calcium and 2-3 times / week with vitamins and / or minerals.
Collared iguanas must be overwintered. For C.Colaris Baileyi a temperature of 5 ° -10C is considered optimal. Often young animals are not overwintered. Now you have to ask the question: Why? In the great outdoors, winter doesn't take a break either. If necessary, take a shorter hibernation.
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